Ki No Bi came out of Japan’s first dedicated gin distillery when it opened in Kyoto in 2016, and it has spent the decade since building a following among bartenders who want something genuinely different to work with.

The foundation is what separates it from everything else: rice spirit rather than grain neutral spirit. That base brings a clean, rounded sweetness that sits underneath the botanicals rather than competing with them. The 11 botanicals are grouped into six categories - base, citrus, tea, herbal, floral, and spice - and the combination is distinctly Japanese in character. Yuzu provides the dominant citrus note, brighter and more aromatic than lemon. Hinoki cypress adds a dry, almost woody freshness. Gyokuro green tea contributes a gentle umami quality in the background. Sanshō pepper - the Japanese relative of Sichuan pepper - brings a tingly heat on the finish that you won’t find in any Western gin.

It’s bottled at 45.7% ABV, which gives the botanicals enough presence to hold up in cocktails without being harsh neat. Works exceptionally well in a simple highball with tonic and a thin lemon slice that doesn’t overwhelm the yuzu.

The packaging is minimalist to the point of restraint: a slender clear bottle with a minimal label, exactly what you’d expect from a distillery based in Kyoto. Has won gold at the IWSC and The Spirits Business awards multiple times.

Stocked at The Whisky Exchange nationwide.